{"id":13012,"date":"2024-03-26T08:16:58","date_gmt":"2024-03-26T07:16:58","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.rhumfestparis.com\/?p=13012"},"modified":"2024-03-26T08:38:21","modified_gmt":"2024-03-26T07:38:21","slug":"rum-from-haiti-get-to-the-bottom-of-the-bottle","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.rhumfestparis.com\/en\/rum-from-haiti-get-to-the-bottom-of-the-bottle\/","title":{"rendered":"Rum from Haiti, get to the bottom of the bottle"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>[et_pb_section fb_built=&#8221;1&#8243; admin_label=&#8221;section&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.16&#8243; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;][et_pb_row admin_label=&#8221;row&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.16&#8243; background_size=&#8221;initial&#8221; background_position=&#8221;top_left&#8221; background_repeat=&#8221;repeat&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;][et_pb_column type=&#8221;4_4&#8243; _builder_version=&#8221;4.16&#8243; custom_padding=&#8221;|||&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; custom_padding__hover=&#8221;|||&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;][et_pb_text admin_label=&#8221;Text&#8221; _builder_version=&#8221;4.24.0&#8243; text_font_size=&#8221;15px&#8221; background_size=&#8221;initial&#8221; background_position=&#8221;top_left&#8221; background_repeat=&#8221;repeat&#8221; text_orientation=&#8221;justified&#8221; global_colors_info=&#8221;{}&#8221; theme_builder_area=&#8221;post_content&#8221;]<\/p>\n<h5 style=\"text-align: center;\"><strong>Rum from Ha\u00efti, get to the bottom of the bottle<\/strong><\/h5>\n<h3><strong>Why does a rum from Haiti develop this aromatic profile? Let&#8217;s go from the bottle to the cane to find out.<\/strong><\/h3>\n<p><img decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter wp-image-12782 size-full\" title=\"Rhum d'Ha\u00efti\" src=\"https:\/\/www.rhumfestparis.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/02\/haiti.jpg\" alt=\"Rhum d'Ha\u00efti\" width=\"900\" height=\"900\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.rhumfestparis.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/02\/haiti.jpg 900w, https:\/\/www.rhumfestparis.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/02\/haiti-480x480.jpg 480w\" sizes=\"(min-width: 0px) and (max-width: 480px) 480px, (min-width: 481px) 900px, 100vw\" \/><\/p>\n<p>&#8220;Bonjour monsieur le caviste.<\/p>\n<p>&#8211; Ah, good morning dear amateur in search of knowledge. To what do I owe your visit today, after yesterday and the day before, and&#8230; the day before that?<\/p>\n<p>&#8211; Well, I&#8217;ve heard about one of the <strong>origins of rum<\/strong> that I know nothing about.<\/p>\n<p>&#8211; What about it? Which one is it?<\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\">&#8211; <b>Ha\u00efti<\/b>.<\/p>\n<p>&#8211; Ah, that&#8217;s an interesting provenance. But to understand it, you&#8217;ll have to taste two very different products.<\/p>\n<p>&#8211; Be that as it may, I&#8217;ll stop at nothing!<\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\">These are more or less the few words exchanged with the <strong>wine merchant<\/strong>, before you leave with two bottles in your wallet, or your stroller, why not.<\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\">As your advisor hasn&#8217;t told you much, you&#8217;re very curious about these two new acquisitions: a &#8220;<strong>white rum<\/strong>&#8221; and an <strong>aged rum<\/strong>. The only indication: &#8220;Finish with the white&#8221;. Instinctively, you would have done the opposite, but okay.<\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\">You follow the guide, and pour a few centilitres of the rum, which proudly displays an age statement on its label: <strong>8 years.<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<h3 class=\"p1\" style=\"text-align: center;\"><strong>The profile that rises to your nostrils reminds you of others, and you immediately think this is a molasses rum, where the cask is responsible for most of the aroma.<\/strong><\/h3>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\">These include <strong>vanilla<\/strong>, <strong>nuts<\/strong>, <strong>wood<\/strong> and a touch of <strong>roast<\/strong>. Pleasant in its <strong>simplicity<\/strong>, it also gives off a relatively dry impression. On the palate, it reveals itself to be softer than expected, with a strong aromatic presence of <strong>caramel<\/strong>, before regaining its <strong>straightforwardness<\/strong> on the finish, during which a hint of <strong>citrus<\/strong> comes to the fore.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Blindly<\/strong>, you would have placed it somewhere in <strong>Latin America<\/strong> or perhaps <strong>Cuba.<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>But it&#8217;s not. In fact, this rum has one major difference: its <strong>raw material<\/strong>! Yes, it&#8217;s made from <strong>cane juice<\/strong> and\/or <strong>syrup<\/strong> (cooked cane juice that has lost a lot of moisture and become concentrated). That&#8217;s a barrelful.<\/p>\n<p>So how do you explain this huge <strong>disparity<\/strong> with the <strong>agricols rums<\/strong> you know? To do so, we&#8217;ll have to take another look at the <strong>production stages.<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>One thing&#8217;s for sure &#8211; and you&#8217;re right &#8211; the<strong> juice used for ageing<\/strong> must not have been an aromatic bomb. That&#8217;s why the <strong>barrel<\/strong> was able to leave such a deep mark on the liquid.<\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\"><strong>Short fermentation<\/strong>, column distillation and a high percentage of alcohol in the mash: these are the reasons behind the lightness of the distillate. The <strong>barrel<\/strong> &#8211; in this case made of French oak &#8211; is left with an (almost) blank canvas on which to draw the rum&#8217;s silhouette as it sees fit.<\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\">\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<h3 style=\"text-align: center;\"><strong>By the way, there&#8217;s only one historic rum distillery in Haiti, so I&#8217;ll leave it to you to find out which one it is. No, it&#8217;s not that complicated, and there&#8217;s absolutely nothing to gain.<\/strong><\/h3>\n<p><strong><\/strong><\/p>\n<p><strong><\/strong><\/p>\n<p>Now it&#8217;s time to taste your second bottle. The <strong>white<\/strong> <strong>eau-de-vie<\/strong> your cellarman advised you to save for last.<\/p>\n<p>As soon as the cork is removed, you understand why. The <strong>highly expressive<\/strong> liquid is literally trying to get out of the bottle and into your nostrils. Pouring it into the glass, you give it a few minutes before approaching your nose.<\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\">This only confirms your first impression: the<strong> cane juice<\/strong> is conquering, both <strong>vegetal<\/strong> and <strong>organic<\/strong>, almost animal. The <strong>fruit<\/strong> is very, <strong>very ripe<\/strong>, with a hint of truffle. A rich, intense rum. Except it&#8217;s not (though). In fact, you&#8217;ve just experienced <strong>clairin<\/strong>.<\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\">This <strong>&#8220;ancestor&#8221; of rum<\/strong> is made by <strong>traditional methods<\/strong>. No phase of the process has changed for decades, if not centuries. There are a few exceptions, where modern distillation columns are used, but most of the country&#8217;s (almost <strong>500<\/strong>) <strong>producers<\/strong> have made no changes to their <strong>ancestral methods<\/strong>.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<h3 style=\"text-align: center;\"><strong>The main reason is to be found in the fermentation process and, above all, in the alembic still used and its settings &#8211; in other words, the famous marks.<br \/><\/strong><\/h3>\n<p><strong><\/strong><\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>Honestly, in the world of rum, there are few things more complicated than the <strong>typologies<\/strong> of <strong>Guyana rums<\/strong>. Don&#8217;t expect me to explain it all to you &#8211; I&#8217;m not planning to write a twelve-volume book on the subject. But here are a few points to keep in mind.<\/p>\n<p>First of all, in <strong>English Guiana<\/strong>, rums are produced in the <strong>Demerara region<\/strong>, which runs alongside the river of the same name. In other words, the two terms are almost synonymous when it comes to rum.<\/p>\n<p>By 1780, there were over <strong>300 distilleries<\/strong> in the area. Ah well! Over the years, most closed and\/or were absorbed by others. By the middle of the 20th century, there were just<strong> eight<\/strong>, and today, only one still exists: <strong>Diamond<\/strong>.<\/p>\n<p>Of course, all the others have disappeared, but some <strong>distilling equipment<\/strong> has been repatriated to Diamond, owned by <strong>Demerara Distillers Limited (DDL)<\/strong>. This means, for example, that <strong>Enmore<\/strong> rums are still produced, even though the distillery of the same name closed in 1994.<\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\">\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<h3 class=\"p1\" style=\"text-align: center;\"><strong>It&#8217;s as if every step is taken to accentuate the aromas.<\/strong><\/h3>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p><strong>Sugar cane<\/strong> is grown &#8220;the old-fashioned way&#8221;, <strong>without any synthetic inputs<\/strong> (no, manure doesn&#8217;t count), in polyculture, mechanically cut, then transported by ox or donkey.<\/p>\n<p>They are then <strong>pressed without the addition of water<\/strong> (also known as imbibition), and the juice is transferred to these fermentation &#8220;vats&#8221;, usually wooden barrels. There are a great <strong>many varieties of cane in Haiti<\/strong>, some endemic to specific regions.<\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\"><strong>Fermentation is spontaneous<\/strong> (no yeast is added) and lasts <strong>at least five days<\/strong>. The cane wine is then <strong>distilled on a still<\/strong>, traditionally heated over an open fire. No filtration or alcoholic reduction before bottling.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<h3 style=\"text-align: center;\"><strong>The result is a cane brandy with an alcoholic percentage generally between 50% and 55%, which has never had water added to it during the production process. A true concentrate of spirits.<\/strong><\/h3>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>Depending on the varieties of cane used, the year&#8217;s climatic conditions, variations during fermentation (during which no controls, such as thermoregulation of the vats, are in place) and the hazards of direct-flame distillation, the resulting <strong>clairin<\/strong> can be<strong> markedly different from one year to the next.<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>This <strong>&#8220;vintage&#8221; effect<\/strong> makes for a fascinating exploration of this <strong>ancestral rum<\/strong>.<\/p>\n<p>What&#8217;s true for the production of a single distillery is even more true between <strong>different distilleries.<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>A little aside: note that the term <strong>&#8220;vintage&#8221;<\/strong> is normally <strong>reserved<\/strong> for <strong>aged rums<\/strong>, especially in the context of geographical indications and other appellations of origin. For <strong>white rums<\/strong>, the term &#8220;<strong>harvest year<\/strong>&#8221; is more appropriate.<\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\">You&#8217;re now equipped with the knowledge you need to appreciate and understand the<strong> rums produced on Haitian soil<\/strong>, where a wide variety of cane distillates are produced. But there&#8217;s still plenty to taste before you&#8217;ve mastered this <strong>two-faced origin.<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][\/et_pb_section]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Rum from Ha\u00efti, get to the bottom of the bottle Why does a rum from Haiti develop this aromatic profile? Let&#8217;s go from the bottle to the cane to find [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":12783,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"_et_pb_use_builder":"on","_et_pb_old_content":"<p class=\"p1\">Il est temps de rendre visite \u00e0 votre boutique pr\u00e9f\u00e9r\u00e9e. Il y a tout un pan d\u2019\u00e9tag\u00e8re sur lequel vous ne vous \u00e9tiez jamais attard\u00e9, o\u00f9 sont assorties des bouteilles aux noms bien connus, surtout lorsque l\u2019on appr\u00e9cie les punchs planteurs ou les ti-punchs. Mais vous vous rendez compte qu\u2019il y a aussi \u00e9norm\u00e9ment de rhums vieux.<\/p>\r\n<p class=\"p1\">Votre caviste, pas avare d\u2019informations et de bons conseils, vous encourage \u00e0 repartir avec, ce qu\u2019il appelle, un VSOP, terme que vous pensiez r\u00e9serv\u00e9 au cognac (vous en savez des choses\u00a0!). Il vous parle aussi d\u2019AOC, de rhum agricole, de cahier des charges, rhum vieux, de r\u00e8glementation, de meilleur rhum du monde (oui, son avis est peut-\u00eatre un peu biais\u00e9). Bref, il vous abreuve d\u2019informations, \u00e0 d\u00e9faut de rhum. Vous suivez son conseil, et c\u2019est une bouteille de rhum AOC Martinique VSOP, qui rejoint votre armoire \u00e0 merveilles liquides.<\/p>\r\n<img class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-12552\" src=\"https:\/\/www.rhumfestparis.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/01\/canne-a-sucre-rhum.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"500\" \/>\r\n<p class=\"p1\">La patience n\u2019\u00e9tant pas votre fort, votre flacon nouvellement acquis voit son bouchon sauter le soir-m\u00eame. Vous ne vous rappelez pas tout ce que votre expert es-rhum vous a dit mais, vous avez gard\u00e9 en t\u00eate que votre nouveau rhum r\u00e9pond au qualificatif de rhum agricole et qu\u2019il est donc issu de la fermentation de jus de canne fraichement press\u00e9 (quand je vous dit que vous en savez d\u00e9j\u00e0 beaucoup).<\/p>\r\n<p class=\"p1\">Et pourtant, lorsque vous mettez le nez au-dessus de votre verre \u00e0 d\u00e9gustation, tout juste rempli de 2 ou 3 cl, vous ne d\u00e9tectez pas ces ar\u00f4mes de canne fraiche auxquels vous vous attendiez.<\/p>\r\n\r\n<blockquote>\r\n<p class=\"p1\" style=\"text-align: center;\">Ce sont des \u00e9pices, du bois\u00e9, un zeste d\u2019orange, des fruits secs, des ar\u00f4mes torr\u00e9fi\u00e9s et une note p\u00e2tissi\u00e8re qui le caract\u00e9risent.<\/p>\r\n<\/blockquote>\r\n<p class=\"p1\">Le vieillissement d\u2019une dur\u00e9e minimum de 4 ans (c\u2019est ce que VSOP donne comme indication) a donc profond\u00e9ment modifi\u00e9 le profil organoleptique du rhum. Cependant, il se distingue aussi d\u2019autres rhums vieux que vous avez pu croiser sur votre \u00e9pop\u00e9e <i>rhumesque<\/i> et poss\u00e8de une identit\u00e9 particuli\u00e8re et marqu\u00e9e.<\/p>\r\n<p class=\"p1\">Plusieurs facteurs expliquent cette signature gustative.<\/p>\r\n<p class=\"p1\">Certes, comme vous l\u2019avez remarqu\u00e9, l\u2019\u00e9levage (dur\u00e9e pass\u00e9e au contact du bois dans le f\u00fbt) joue un r\u00f4le pr\u00e9pond\u00e9rant au travers des ar\u00f4mes qui en sont issus, mais il n\u2019est pas le seul. Le distillat a \u00e9galement son mot \u00e0 dire \u2013 et quand il s\u2019agit de rhum pur jus de canne, il a beaucoup \u00e0 raconter, a fortiori au sein de l\u2019AOC Martinique.<\/p>\r\n<p class=\"p1\">Attention, je vais incorporer un petit peu de technique dans votre verre de rhum.<\/p>\r\n<p class=\"p1\">Comme toute Appellation d\u2019Origine Contr\u00f4l\u00e9e, celle-ci est fond\u00e9e sur la notion de terroir. Pour faire simple, gardons \u00e0 l\u2019esprit l\u2019importance du savoir-faire reconnu selon lequel sont r\u00e9alis\u00e9es toutes les \u00e9tapes de production au sein d\u2019une aire g\u00e9ographique pr\u00e9cise.<\/p>\r\n<p class=\"p1\">L\u2019AOC Martinique, qui a \u00e9t\u00e9 adopt\u00e9e en 1996 avait comme objectif principal de prot\u00e9ger les rhums produits sur l\u2019\u00eele des contrefa\u00e7ons. Bien s\u00fbr, c\u2019est un point important pour le consommateur, qui est assur\u00e9 de la qualit\u00e9 des produits arborant cette indication, mais ce qui l\u2019est tout autant, r\u00e9side dans le cahier des charges de l\u2019AOC. Les producteurs de rhums AOC Martinique doivent suivre \u00e0 la lettre un certain nombre de r\u00e8gles tout au long de l\u2019\u00e9laboration du pr\u00e9cieux liquide.<\/p>\r\n<p class=\"p1\">Je ne vais pas toutes les lister ici, sinon, vous allez vous retrouver avec petit livre indigeste plut\u00f4t qu\u2019un court article facile \u00e0 lire. Pour les plus curieux (et les plus courageux), je vous conseille de jeter un \u0153il \u00e0 <a href=\"https:\/\/info.agriculture.gouv.fr\/gedei\/site\/bo-agri\/document_administratif-d3e1b28b-d5dc-49ee-8147-82a9a3fe6890\"><span class=\"s1\">l\u2019arr\u00eat\u00e9 du 29 d\u00e9cembre 2020<\/span><\/a>, qui regorge de quoi \u00e9tancher votre soif (de connaissances).<\/p>\r\n<p class=\"p1\">Parmi les crit\u00e8res figurant au cahier des charges, on trouve entre autres les vari\u00e9t\u00e9s de cannes, les zones g\u00e9ographiques, la p\u00e9riode de r\u00e9colte de la canne, la fourchette de dur\u00e9e de fermentation, l\u2019appareil \u00e0 distiller (colonne cr\u00e9ole), ainsi que le pourcentage volumique de coulage, la dur\u00e9e minimale de repos du rhum blanc, l\u2019essence de bois (le ch\u00eane) utilis\u00e9e pour le vieillissement, le fait que ces rhums doivent pr\u00e9senter un profil organoleptique propre au rhum AOC et leur non-\u00e9dulcoration.<\/p>\r\n\r\n<blockquote>\r\n<p class=\"p1\" style=\"text-align: center;\">L\u2019ensemble de r\u00e8gles le plus stricte dans le monde du rhum o\u00f9 chacun des principes \u00e0 respecter va avoir un impact sur les ar\u00f4mes et les saveurs de votre rhum.<\/p>\r\n<\/blockquote>\r\n<p class=\"p1\">Cela se traduira sur l\u2019eau-de-vie de canne non vieillie par des notes fruit\u00e9es, v\u00e9g\u00e9tales et florales, tout en d\u00e9veloppant puissance et finesse aromatiques. Mais lorsque le rhum est mis \u00e0 vieillir (dans des f\u00fbts de ch\u00eane de mois de 650 litres), il va progressivement se modifier, autant visuellement qu\u2019organoleptiquement \u2013 ce n\u2019est pas tous les jours qu\u2019on fait face \u00e0 un mot de sept syllabes.<\/p>\r\n<p class=\"p1\">Un rhum vieux AOC Martinique doit passer au moins trois ans en f\u00fbt, quatre ans pour un VSOP et six ans pour un XO. Ils pourront cependant \u00eatre plus vieux, les \u00e2ges d\u00e9crits sont des \u00e2ges minimums.<\/p>\r\n<p class=\"p1\">Sa couleur va devenir de plus en plus intense au fil des ans, entre miel et acajou fonc\u00e9. La teinte d\u2019un spiritueux provient, en principe, du contact avec le bois. Je dis \u00ab\u00a0en principe\u00a0\u00bb car beaucoup de producteur utilisent du caramel colorant pour uniformiser leurs produits, voire pour totalement en changer la couleur, ce dernier point \u00e9tant interdit dans le cadre de l\u2019AOC.<\/p>\r\n<p class=\"p1\">Les ar\u00f4mes vont totalement changer, devenir plus complexes et plus longs en bouche. Le cahier des charges les \u00e9crit comme suit\u00a0: bois\u00e9s, fruit\u00e9s (figues, dates, pruneaux), \u00e9pic\u00e9s (vanille, cannelle, muscade) et empyreumatiques (torr\u00e9fi\u00e9, caf\u00e9, grill\u00e9, cacao).<\/p>\r\n<p class=\"p1\">Le choix du f\u00fbt jouera un r\u00f4le pr\u00e9pond\u00e9rant (ainsi que le temps pass\u00e9 dans ce f\u00fbt). Du ch\u00eane fran\u00e7ais n\u2019aura pas le m\u00eame effet que du ch\u00eane am\u00e9ricain\u00a0; l\u2019influence du f\u00fbt neuf se traduira diff\u00e9remment que celle d\u2019un f\u00fbt usag\u00e9\u00a0; le pr\u00e9c\u00e9dent contenu pourra avoir un impact majeur sur le rhum nouvellement entonn\u00e9. Autant de choix que la distillerie et le ma\u00eetre de chais devront faire en fonction du r\u00e9sultat escompt\u00e9.<\/p>\r\n<p class=\"p1\">Votre nez ne vous avait donc pas tromp\u00e9, vous \u00eates bien loin d\u2019un rhum blanc pur jus de canne. Cependant, soyez certain que l\u2019identit\u00e9 du distillat a bien son r\u00f4le \u00e0 jouer sur le profil du rhum vieux, m\u00eame si ce sont les conditions de vieillissement qui d\u00e9termineront l\u2019essentiel de la trame aromatique de votre rhum vieux AOC Martinique.<\/p>","_et_gb_content_width":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[616,18,624],"tags":[456,422,623],"class_list":["post-13012","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-quelle-est-cette-bouteille-de-rhum","category-uncategorized","category-whats-this-bottle-of-rum","tag-haiti-en","tag-melasse-en","tag-rhum-vieux-en"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v27.3 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/product\/yoast-seo-wordpress\/ -->\n<title>Rum from Haiti, get to the bottom of the bottle - Rhum Fest Paris<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.rhumfestparis.com\/en\/rum-from-haiti-get-to-the-bottom-of-the-bottle\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Rum from Haiti, get to the bottom of the bottle - Rhum Fest Paris\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Rum from Ha\u00efti, get to the bottom of the bottle Why does a rum from Haiti develop this aromatic profile? 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